ATTACHED TO THE HAIR COLOR CHEMICAL: An Insider’s View

It is not printed in cosmetology books that hair dye (whether permanent or semi-permanent) is derived from deadly coal tar. Nor is it printed on boxes of hair color that several ingredients have been known to cause or increase these types of cancer; lung, breast, uterine, ovarian, myeloma, non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma, leukemia and bladder. For over twenty years, I have been working as a professional hair colorist. We were never told in school and it is not pronounced in the industry. They tell us to wear gloves but some stylists do not. On every box of color, it says apply chemicals 24 hours in advance to see if the client has an allergic response (to the PPD that we don’t know exists inside); no colorist I know does this test in the industry. If a client wants color, it’s money and you grant them their wishes.


PPD (or para-phenylenediamine) is in almost every color dye on the market. The darker the color, the higher the concentration of chemical. There is twice as much PPD in the color black as compared to brown and blonde containing a relatively low dose. There are four grades but “Cosmetic Grade” is derived from a different process and the only grade acceptable for hair.

First introduced in 1890, Dupont now has the monopoly on this potent chemical and sells it to L’oreal or Sally’s (Beauty Systems Group). “These are the world’s two conglomerates in the business of beauty,” says chemist David Hanon, owner of Loma Products, a vegan styling product line. PPD has been banned in European countries such as Germany, France and Sweden. In the US where prevention is not the norm, Dupont clearly states that “PPD has not caused carcinogenicity in animals.” So why should it affect Americans? There have been over 420 studies on its toxicity. It is in over 1,500 products. Nearly 70 studies with PPD have been linked to cancer since 1958.

I interviewed chemists from international top color lines to find out how much PPD was used in their product. Many would not participate including top-seller Clairol. However, Maria Pittavino, head chemist from Framesi Color, said they only have .4 -.8%. That is relatively low compared to Redken’s 2%. If pure PPD contacts the skin, a reaction will occur. In fact, in Morrocco and Sudan, pure PPD taken orally is the most common form of suicide. But as a consumer or professional stylist, once one develops an allergy to PPD, there is no antidote.

As a colorist, I wonder how long before the small print becomes larger? I continued my research seeking color lines that did not contain PPD. This lead me to communicating with approximately fifteen organic lines internationally, three of which I explored their benefits and non-traditional approach. In most the odor was appealing and the color rich, yet my clients & I noticed that the color faded quickly. Currently I use a traditional line and the organic color line All-Nutrient.

Everyone is turning green; globally aware of the impact of chemicals on our ecosystem. But PPD covers that gray and in this youth-driven-image-conscious culture coupled with the anxiety of preserving a job, people want their chemicals.


© 2009 Dianne Nola